Hanfu 汉服 (literally “Han clothing”) refers to the historical dress of the Han Chinese people. It is not a single garment but a system of clothing with many styles. Its style evolved significantly across dynasties, reflecting changes in culture, social norms, and foreign influences.
To understand Hanfu, the first thing we need to know is its basic structure. In terms of components, Hanfu is not much different from modern fashion. The basic structure of Hanfu features a "two-piece set" (upper garment + lower garment) as the core, with distinct components that reflect traditional Chinese aesthetics and functionality.
The upper garment (Yi 衣) is typically a robe-style top with a cross-collar (jiaoling 交领) design, overlapping left over right (youren 右衽). But in the early Ming Dynasty, influenced by the characteristics of nomadic people's clothing, there was also an opposite way of wearing, which means overlapping right over left (zuoren 左衽). However, normally, youren 右衽 is considered as the only correct way in traditional norms, this wrapping style is not just aesthetic - it carries cultural meaning, symbolizing conformity to ritual and order.
With the changes of dynasties, different types of collars emerged, such as round collars and square collars, and buttons began to be used instead of ties on clothing, the style is getting closer to current fashion.
Sleeves are divided into narrow and wide types, almost every dynasty had its distinctive sleeve shape.
The lower Garment (Chang 裳) mainly includes "qun 裙" (skirt, wrapped around the waist) and "ku 裤"(trousers, loose-fitting for comfort). Qun 裙 is the primary lower garment for women, typically a full, pleated skirt with a high waistband (called "gaoyao qun 高腰裙"), it is attached to the upper garment (Yi 衣) via ties, creating a seamless look that emphasizes the waist and flows naturally when walking. Ku 裤 refers to all lower body pants-style garments in Hanfu, distinct from the skirt-like "qun" worn by women. They have a long history, dating back to the pre-Qin period, and were originally worn for practicality—facilitating activities like riding, farming, or martial arts. Over time, Ku 裤 evolved to balance functionality with Hanfu’s core principles of modesty and natural draping. Most ku have a wide, elastic-free waistband (made of the same fabric as the trousers) tied at the side or back, ensuring comfort and a loose fit. Wide legs are dominant, allowing air circulation and graceful movement. Even tighter styles maintain a relaxed fit around the thighs. Ties are the primary closure method (no zippers or snaps), staying consistent with Hanfu’s traditional craftsmanship.
Yi 衣 and Chang 裳 are the most representative parts of Hanfu. In addition, Hanfu also has many functional components, whose functions are similar to modern underwear, socks, cloaks, etc.
